CONTAX 139 MANUALE PDF

The Contax Quartz is a 35mm SLR that was introduced in and manufactured up until with something over , being built in that time. It was manufactured by Yashica in Japan under licence to Zeiss. Yashica also manufactured the Yashica FX-D which was seen as a budget version of the with less features but, in fact, was largely a completely different camera. The Q had a quartz-timed, electronically-controlled vertical metal shutter that was very advanced for its day. Other new features included manual or aperture-priority exposure controls and a DOF preview lever. Exposure compensation is available and can be adjusted by over or under 2 EV.

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Contax Resource. Service and repair information for the Contax Items For Sale. Repair Service. DIY Repairs. About the About Me. Contact Me. My eBay. This page is intended to give some guidance to anyone wishing to attempt their own repairs. The page does get updated occasionally as I get to record and write up more things. Needless to say, anything you do to your camera is at your risk even if you are following my instructions. Repair manual. Assembly and parts manual.

Most repairs will require some degree of dismantling of the camera so it makes sense to start with the basic top cover and baseplate removal. Not a lot to say about this. There are three screws which, when removed, allow the baseplate to come off. The only things to watch out for are the rewind release button cover and the plastic surround from around the tripod bush, both of which are loose and will likely fall out once the plate is removed.

First thing to remove is the shutter release button and ISO speed dial. The release button unscrews but, of course, there is nothing to catch hold of.

The technique is to use a rubber pad pressed down against the button or, as I prefer, a latex glove stretched over the end of a finger, to grip the button and turn it. Apply a piece of double sided sticky tape to the button, overlapping it onto the surrounding dial.

Most times, this will rotate the shutter release button as well. With the button unscrewed, the ISO dial assembly can be lifted out. Next remove the rewind knob. Undo the camera back and insert the blade of a screwdriver, or something similar, into the fork on the bottom end of the rewind shaft. This will stop it from turning so that the knob can be unscrewed.

There is usually a washer under the knob though sometimes this maybe missing. With the rewind knob removed, unscrew the three screws in the shutter speed dial and lift off the dial. Next remove the film advance lever. The rubber insert on top of the lever is stuck on. Lift a corner of it first and then pull the whole insert out. Undo the screw which is found under the rubber insert. With the screw out, the lever can be lifted off. One of the slots will have the end of a spring engaged in it.

Disengage the spring and lift off the washer. Underneath is a collet with a slotted top. Unscrew the collet using a wrench. The spring around the collet is hooked into a slot in the top cover and will come out once the collet is unscrewed. Remove the trim from around the remote release socket. Use a piece of rubber to press against the trim and then unscrew it. Now remove five screws holding the top cover in place.

One is near the shutter speed dial, two are either side of the viewfinder and two are either side of the lens mount. Note the two by the lens mount are longer than the others.

With the top and bottom covers off, the trim around the lens mount can be removed. There is a plate either side of the lens mount that can be removed. To do so, the front covers need to be removed first.

Under the right hand cover looking from the front is the exposure adjustment and also the flash voltage adjustment. On later cameras, the flash voltage adjustment also had a hole through which it could be adjusted. The connections for the magnet are under this plate and some checks can be carried out.

But the magnet itself cannot be reached. The left hand front plate carries the exposure check button and self timer switch. A small PCB on the back of the plate makes contact with some spring contacts in the body allowing the plate to be removed. Removing this plate allows better access to the mirror damper flywheel which sometimes squeaks and needs lubricating. The shutter magnet not the release magnet is also under this plate if you need to access it.

Electrical contacts are always a potential source of problems. I use a fibre glass pen made for the job. They are like a propelling pencil but have a bundle of glass fibres instead of a lead. When rubbed over electrical contacts it does a good job of removing any dirt and oxidisation. If you don't have one, cleaning the contacts with isopropyl alcohol IPA does almost as well. Electrical contacts exist at the shutter speed dial, the ISO dial, the left hand front plate exposure check switch and self timer and the later versions of transfer switch under the base plate.

Once the top cover is removed, the shutter speed dial click plate assembly is removed by removing the rewind shaft holder nut then disengaging the spring from the click lever assembly then moving the lever out of the way, or lifting it off, so that the click plate can be lifted off the shaft.

Underneath is a PCB with several gold plated tracks. They all should be cleaned. Also the spring contacts which are attached to the underside of the click plate. The ISO contact plate assembly has three metal disks mounted over it. In the picture the top one has already been removed. Clean the spring contact on the underside of the contact plate. This picture also shows the spring contacts that connect to the left hand front plate assembly.

Clean the spring contacts and also the mating contacts on the rear of the PCB which is attached to the back of the front plate. The transfer switch is located under the base plate. There are three different versions that I know of. The two later ones use open contacts and should be cleaned. The shutter release switch consists of a domed metal disk sitting on a printed circuit board.

The pin attached to the underside of the release button sits on top of this domed disk and, when pressed, causes the centre of the disk to come into contact with the PCB. Problems can be caused by dirty or oxidised contacts or by distortion of the domed disk. To remove the switch, the ISO plate needs to be lifted. Refer to the section on lifting the flexible PCB to find out how to do this. With the ISO plate lifted, the switch, which is on the underside of the plate, can be dismantled.

First remove one screw that holds in place the row of contacts that mate with the front plate and move them aside. Then remove the two screws usually sealed that hold the switch cover in place. The parts of the switch, in their correct assembly order, are shown in the picture. The flywheel is located on the left side of the mirror box. I lubricate both the flywheel shaft and the shaft of the gear above it. Use only very light oil. This means it has to be lifted out of the way if access to the prism is required or to remove the mirror box.

Before starting to release the flexi, remove the top and bottom covers, also the lens mount trim and the left hand looking from the front front panel.

Also remove any batteries to eliminate power to the flexi. Start by desoldering the wires to the shutter. There are three wires - brown, yellow and black. While you have the soldering iron in your hand, also desolder the brown wire that comes up from the flash socket.

Also desolder the green wire from the remote release socket. Before removing the arm, note how the hair spring that protrudes from the arm engages with the indicator flag. Next remove the metal clip that retains the wires that go to the shutter and also acts as an anchor point for the spring that is attached to the exposure compensation lock lever. When removing the clip, unclip the spring from the lever green arrow below and leave it attached to the clip. The ISO dial plate needs to be released by unscrewing the three retaining screws and also the exposure compensation indicator arm pivot.

Note the spring hooked around the larger, black, screw. Now the ISO plate is free and can be lifted but the flash contacts are still preventing the flexi from being completely lifted away. Note the contacts hanging from below the ISO plate.

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